is it a cake? is it a dessert? no, it's chocolate torrone

So, I seem to be on a bit of an Italian drive at the moment. And that's having denied all knowledge in my last post. Oh well. Never mind. Speak first, think later, and all that.

You may have gathered by now that I like chocolate. So at least I'm being consistent by coming up with another chocolate-themed post.

But next, a dilemma. Torrone. Soft. Chocolate. What to call it? Cake or dessert? Dessert or cake? Or neither? Anna del Conte calls it 'a confection' - a neat get-out if ever I saw one, particularly as she then goes on to explain that it is 'usually served as a pudding, though it is delicious with coffee at any time of day'.

Hmmm, not a good start. And then there's the question of which recipe. As any fule no, Italians will argue all day and night - nay, an entire lifetime - over the provenance and authenticity of a recipe.

Fine. Once more unto the breach, dear friends, once more, I go.

What follows, then, is my version, based on a recipe by Anna Del Conte. She is in no way responsible for what I've done to it, be it for better or worse. (No way could I countenance putting digestive biscuits in it, for example. To me that would result in something much more like the ubiquitous chocolate tiffin.) Mine will give you a very soft and intensely chocolatey 'nougat', which should be served straight from the fridge.

Ingredients
100g blanched almonds
100g blanched hazelnuts or pistachios
200g unsalted butter
120g cocoa powder (the best you can get, 100% pure cocoa)
1 large egg
1 tbsp golden syrup or a plain honey
2 tbsp dark rum

Method
Preheat the oven to 180C/Gas 4. Line a 2lb loaf tin with cling film. Spread the nuts on a baking tray, and toast for 7-10 minutes until they've turned golden. Watch them like a hawk, though - they burn very easily.

Leave them to cool, and then whizz in a blender until coarsely ground. (Alternatively, depending on how you like your torrone, whizz half until coarsely ground, and the other half more finely.)

Cream butter and sugar together until light and fluffy. Add the cocoa, a spoonful at a time, and beat hard until completely incorporated. Next, mix in the nuts. Then beat the egg and golden syrup together, and add to the mixture. Add in the rum, and stir the whole lot until thoroughly blended.

Spoon the mixture into the clingfilmed tin, press it down, and level the top. Cover with clingfilm and refrigerate for at least 4 hours.

(Anna's serving suggestion: 'Decorate with crystallised flowers and/or blanched or sugared almonds to serve.' As you can see, I ignored that, and went with blood oranges instead - a good match for both the rum and cocoa.)

This chocolate torrone goes well with a Maury, or with a decent, strong coffee. Eat it as a dessert, a cake, I really don't care. Have it for breakfast, if you feel so inclined. Life's too short to argue about it.