Thursday 15 October 2009

Pierre Koffman's Restaurant on the Roof at Selfridges

I live an ordinary life. Some ups, some downs, and plenty of routine daily stuff inbetween. I have no complaints, and I’m more than happy with my lot.

But once every so often, I have moments of realisation – moments of thankfulness, even, for the sheer wonder of life and the pleasures it brings. It is not overstating things to say that my meal on Tuesday evening at Pierre Koffman’s ‘pop-up’ restaurant on the roof at Selfridges was one such moment.

I don’t want to sully the memory by giving a detailed blow-by-blow account of each course. I’m a food blogger, not a master of culinary wizardry, and I doubt I could find the words, frankly, or accurately identify all the ingredients or technical skill which comprised the taste extravaganza. In any case, others have already done that task for me and taken the photographic evidence, too.

For the record, we (two of us) ate our way through fricassee of wild mushrooms with snails and bone marrow, and pressed leeks and langoustines with a truffle vinaigrette to start; followed by Koffmann’s legendary pig’s trotter stuffed with veal sweetbreads and morel mushrooms, and royale de lièvre; and to finish, a warm chocolate mousse with malt ice cream, and Toscano dark chocolate mousse layered with hazelnut dacquoise, served with orange yogurt ice cream and Yuzu jelly. And, as if that wasn’t enough, the meal was prefaced by a langoustine bisque with a herb crème Chantilly, and tailed with a generous plate of assorted petits fours.

From start to finish, and without exception, the food was exquisite. If I had to pick my personal highlight, my epiphany, then I’d single out the pig’s trotter. Why? Because it was infinitely more pleasurable than I could ever have imagined, and quite possibly the most wonderful thing I have ever eaten (and I’ve been fortunate enough to eat at some rather special places over the years). I’ve had trotter several times before, but nothing could have prepared me for just how exceptional Koffman’s version was. I can’t improve on the adjectives others have already used: unctuous, silken, gelatinous, rich, intense, delicate, elegant, creamy, ambrosial. It was all those, and still more, as was the ‘mash’ which accompanied it. Never, in my experience, has the humble mashed potato tasted so utterly divine.

Suffice to say this was a meal that far exceeded the sum of its parts. Added to that, the service was friendly to a fault, immaculate throughout, and enhanced by the warm and attentive presence of Claire, Koffman’s partner. A more welcoming host you’d be very hard pushed to find.

The actual restaurant structure, too, completely surpassed expectations – sumptuously and imaginatively decorated and furnished (all Selfridges’ own work, apparently), with only the somewhat bouncy floors betraying its impermanence.

In short, I all but gave thanks to God while I was there (and I speak as someone who havers between atheism and agnosticism). I gave them instead to Claire. And no, I haven’t taken leave of my senses or critical faculties. I’m aware, too, that not everybody has been wholly ecstatic, and that there have been a few inconsistencies and niggles along the way.

All I can say is my own experience was flawless and memorable for all the best reasons, and for that I am truly grateful. What’s more, I’m happy to report that there IS a god, and he’s alive, well, and currently cooking majestic food in a restaurant touching the heavens above Selfridges.

Pierre Koffmann - Restaurant on the Roof on Urbanspoon

40 comments:

Dan said...

What a fantastic review Helen. I'm going tonight and just hope my experience matches yours! sounds like you had a wonderful time indeed.

Niamh said...

It was such a lovely experience. Can I go back?! Please!

Jamie said...

Wow! Amazing meal and isn't wonderful to have an utterly perfect meal from time to time. It renews our faith in man.

Anonymous said...

Beautiful writing. Very honest and with a lot of emotion. One word: Bravo!

Pia K said...

sounds like a truly memorable experience, loved the read! as for the food... well, give me he desserts and i'm happy.

scandilicious said...

Vive le Koffman!

Being contrarian I decided not to join the scrum going to eat at this most feted of pop-ups but I thoroughly enjoyed your review - that trotter sounds exceptional.

Dan said...

Went last night - amazing experience. Loved it. No issues with service and waiting, was all perfect. Had the trotter, and it was delicious. If I could go again (and afford it!) I would.

Hollow Legs said...

This makes me even more upset that I gae up my reservation. Curses on my poverty!

Kavey said...

So glad to read of another positive experience... I really enjoyed my meal and have been reading with some interest the very mixed reviews, both lows and highs, of those who have visited during the week!
:)

aforkfulofspaghetti said...

Dan - I did, I did...

Niamh - if you go back, can I come with you? please?

Jamie - yes, indeed

Mathilde - thank you!

Pia - I think you would have been more than happy with the desserts

Sig - Vive le Koffman, indeed. I almost did the same as you - but thankfully, curiosity finally got the better of me...

Dan - yep, me too

Lizzie - aw... :(

Kavey - yes, it's been interesting, hasn't it?

George@CulinaryTravels said...

Oh how I would have loved to have been there. It sounds like you had an amazing time.

Sam said...

Wow, it sounds amazing! I loved reading your review.

I'm always amazed at the creative genius of chefs like Koffman, I would never in a million years have come up with ideas like his!

things we make said...

Sounds fantastic. Great Review. You see that's why we should come to London more often!

aforkfulofspaghetti said...

Sam - I guess that's why we're willing to hand over large sums of cash for the privilege...

thingswemake - couldn't agree more

Unknown said...

Hot sale Cheap cell phonesand cell phone china on our site! Fashion look and powerful functions for these mobile phones even discount cell phones! Wholesale HiPhone, 3G cell phones, PDA/Smart Phone now.China Cell PhonesDon't miss these cellphone!toysDiscount Handbags On Sale-Beautycasa Online :

Anonymous said...

Yummy!! I was watching a cooking show before this and the advertisement was about semenax.

roofing in manchester said...

Hi, love this post. Very interesting, I look forward to reading more of your work in the future. Keep up the good work.

seo manchester said...

Very interesting post, extemely well thought out and put together. Keep up the good work.

t5 slimming pills said...

Great post, love your work. Very well thought out and put together.

Anonymous said...

Thanks great post african mango reviews

review of panic away said...

You are so right about how an excellent meal can lift one's life out of the ordinary. It's fun once in a while, even if you are very content with your general lot in life.

proactol review said...

This sounds like a wonderful experience. My first husband was from London and we used to visit frequently. I remember when it was difficult to find a memorable meal in London. Glad things have improved!

eca 30 said...

Superb site you have here but I was wondering if you knew of any community forums that cover the same topics talked about here? I’d really like to be a part of online community where I can get suggestions from other knowledgeable individuals that share the same interest. If you have any suggestions, please let me know. Appreciate it!

garmin edge 800 said...

And to think I gave up my reservation. Ugh!!

Weber E-310 said...

Sounds like an awesome dining experience, Helen. I've been a fine-dining server for many years and truly enjoy all aspects of the business. I actually prefer serving to being the one being served, but luckily, there are many others who prefer the reverse.

KDL-46EX720 said...

Helen, the whole meal sounds divine, with the exception, at least for me, of the "Pig Trotter." The images those words conjure up for me just aren't that appetizing, I'm afraid, but maybe I'll be able to get over it next time I see it offered on a menu. Thanks!

six pack abs said...

Thanks for sharing.

John McEachern said...

Nice header and I really appreciated the review! Outdoor Lighting

penishealth info said...

I absolutely love spaghetti - the image at the top of the blog/post makes me mouth water.

Thanks for sharing

credit repair texas said...

thanks for sharing sounds like a great experience with a great picture too.

android developer said...

Its very interesting blog which has sufficient information to understand the concept of your blogging.I am thankful to your words and it encourages me to read more blogs on your site.I bookmarked your website ,so upload more blogs.

Maxwell hotel seattle said...

ohhh nice info. Reading this made me feel smarter,better informed. Thanks for sharing this amazing kind of post.

Bayan Ankara Escort said...

Seksi Escort Ankara
Ankara Escort  seksi genç eskort kızlar için bir eskort ajansı . Escort Bayan  ajansı, Ankara'nın en güzel bayan escort en güzel erotik hizmetler sağlar.

Escort Bayan Ankara, hizmeti, sexi escort kızlar ,.


Eskort Bayanlar Ankara, eskort sevimli görünüyor ve dostu doğanın güzelliği ve cazibesi Ankara eskort kızlar, için bilinen,
kendi tutku ve sıcak eğrileri, onların güzel güneş ankara escort  kız Latin eskort pürüzsüz bir cilt öptü ...
ve en güzel fantazileri yaşatmak için bütün imkankarını zorlayacklardır.
bayan ankara escort dahil olmak üzere uygun merkezi yerlerde .

ankarada seçkin escort, Ankara eskort bayan, fotoğraf galerisi keşfetmek!

Geç Incall rezervasyon seçtiğiniz
escort ankara bayan tavsiye ederiz.
Escort Bayan Ankara,
Escort Bayan,
Ankara Escort,
Ankara Escort Bayan,
Escort Bayan Ankara,
Escort Bayan,
Escort Ankara Bayan,
Ankara Escort,
Ankara Escort Bayan,
Escort Bayan Ankara
Ankara Escort Bayan
Escort Ankara
Bayan Ankara Escort
Bursa Escort
Escort Bayan Ankara,
Escort Ankara

London Crumpet said...

London escorts directory London Crumpet is created to expose Independent escorts and escort agencies in London. Everybody can post their advert on this directory for FREE.

London Oriental Escorts said...

London Asian Escorts is an Asian and Oriental escort agency operating in Central London. The agency provides escort service for a true gentlemen.

Unknown said...

Turkey Ankara Vip Escort Bayanlar Sizleri Bekliyor.

Ankara Escortlar

Unknown said...


Turkey ankara vip escorts
sincan escort

faith whtye said...

Latest show….
http://nigeriawillwork.com
http://techlive.website


How to…
What is…
What is…
When…
The best…
The hardest…
The cheapest…
The latest update….
Latest song…
The cheapest best
The latest movie…
Latest show….

Nice Post I saw something similar here

Nigeria news

Sahubs said...


This is really great,unique and very informitive post, I like it.
punch newspaper today punch newspaper the nation newspaper tribune newspaper
the punch punch newspaper headlines today punch newspaper sun newspaper nigeria
vanguard newspaper  punch newspapers

Anonymous said...

эскорт работа стамбул
эскорт работа

escort olmak istiyorum
escort olmak

orospu olmak istiyorum
orospu olmak

escort başvuru
escort bayan başvuru

ankara swinger
ankara evli çift
ankara ücretli çift

istanbul swinger
istanbul evli çift
istanbul ücretli çift